At the risk of posting back to back reviews for American restaurants with Asian influences, I am writing this (double review) now because I just read that both Má Pêche and fuku+ will unfortunately be closing later this summer, so you’ll need to visit while you still can. If I’m honest, the space the two David Chang restaurants occupied in the Chambers Hotel always felt a bit awkward to me, but the food was solid and the format (at Má Pêche, in particular) was differentiated. According to Eater NY, Christina Tosi’s outpost of Milk Bar upstairs will remain, for those of you trying to get your b’day truffle fix in midtown.
At Má Pêche, the savory courses are generally pretty tasty, and the classy, quasi dim sum experience is both fun and original, though the service can be a touch on the slower side. If you’re unfamiliar with the way Má Pêche works, there is a traditional menu with small and large plates, but there are also staff who push around dim sum carts with a variety of passed plates for the table. As a result, it’s great for groups, so long as everyone doesn’t mind being a bit surprised by the final bill, as the prices of the cart items remain a mystery unless you go out of your way to ask. This might have bothered me more, had I not ended up feeling like I got a good bang for my buck at the end of the night.
The smoked lamb ribs were fall-off-the-bone tender, and the fried chicken was all kinds of crunchy and spicy, in just the right way. Má Pêche steals a number of dishes from Ssäm Bar (e.g. porgy, fried brussels sprouts, pork bun) that are reliable, but I couldn’t help feeling like the pork buns weren’t quite as good at Má Pêche. We didn’t love the beef with broccoli, but the fried chicken skin with caviar and ranch was a treat.
Interestingly, the presence of the Milk Bar upstairs was my least favorite part of the three-headed Chang dining experience, because most of the desserts offered at Má Pêche and fuku+ are simply Milk Bar items, which made the whole ordeal feel a bit like I was visiting a Momofuku food court.
If you’re upstairs at Fuku+ (tucked behind the Milk Bar), you’re probably there for the lauded fuku chicken sandwich, and, if so, I recommend ordering it “Koreano” style, which means topped with refreshing pickled daikon radish. When you’re done, please let me know where you side on the great fuku vs. Chick-fil-A debate. If you’ve already had the chicken sandwich, the chicken fingers pack a flavorful punch, and actually go really well with a Ssäm sauce michelada. Speaking of Ssäm sauce, Momofuku just partnered with Heinz to sell it on Amazon. You have to hand it to Chang, despite these closures, the man is quite the empire builder. Hurry over to these two spots before the empire (temporarily) gets a bit smaller.
Má Pêche Summary:
- Rating: 3/4 Stars
- Pricing: $$$ (Zagat)
- Food: American / Asian
- Dress Code: Casual
- Neighborhood: Midtown West
- Website: www.mapeche.momofuku.com
- Instagram: None, but you can see photos here (Momofuku is @momolongplay)
Fuku+ Summary:
- Rating: 3/4 Stars
- Pricing: $ (Zagat)
- Food: Chicken
- Dress Code: Casual
- Neighborhood: Midtown West
- Website: wwww.fukuplus.momofuku.com
- Instagram: @fuku (not specific to this location)
Rating System Guidelines:
4 Stars: outstanding, cannot wait to return
3 Stars: great, would be happy to return
2 Stars: good, though not necessary to seek out
1 Star: forgettable, ought to dine elsewhere
My rating is meant to account for not just the quality of the meal and experience, but also the value, without favoring the ultra expensive. In other words, a high-end restaurant (e.g. Del Posto) and a casual eatery (e.g. BaoHaus) can both receive 4/4 stars, even though they are extremely different atmospheres and the former is clearly “nicer.”
Alexander Sonageri 